Garibaldi Plaza

One of the most emblematic squares in the city. Its vocation has changed over the years. Initially it was a pre-Hispanic Texcatzoncatl neighborhood, and after Mexican Independence it was known as the Plazuela de Jardín, where harvests festivals were carried out, and later it was known as the Plaza del Baratillo, until 1921, when it was named Garibaldi as part of the centenary of the Independence celebrations.

Today it is one of the busiest tourist squares because of its festive atmosphere dedicated to Mexican music, especially the mariachi. Every day hundreds of people gather to hear great performances by trio or marimba or northern band. The square is surrounded by restaurants and traditional centers for unforgettable evenings with your family, friends or a partner.

How to hire a mariachi. There is no stage and no programme: the bands stand around the square and you hire them directly, by the song or by a block of time. Ask the price per song before they start, agree how many songs, and pay at the end; if you are in a group, have one person do the negotiating. Because several bands work within a few metres of each other, mariachi, norteño, huapango and son jarocho all play at once — that overlapping noise is part of the experience.

Where the tradition comes from. The square was a pre-Hispanic neighbourhood, later the Plazuela de Jardín and the Plaza del Baratillo, and in 1921 it took the name of José "Peppino" Garibaldi. The music arrived in the 1920s: around 1923 the Salón Tenampa opened and brought in the Mariachi Coculense, establishing the Jalisco style here; between the 1930s and the 1950s the area filled with pavilions and dance halls.

What is around it. Salón Tenampa is still on the square; a few steps away are the Tequila and Mezcal Museum, the Centro Artesanal Garibaldi and the Mercado de San Camilito, open 24 hours and specialising in Jalisco food and broths —the best way to end the night. Street stalls around the edges sell antojitos, elotes and tacos.

When to go and what to keep in mind. The peak is the early hours at weekends. Drinking alcohol in the street is regulated, so the drinking happens inside the cantinas and salons. The plaza sits where several neighbourhoods meet —Centro, Guerrero, La Lagunilla and Tepito— so arrive and leave by ride app rather than walking into the side streets at night, and carry only the cash you plan to spend. The address is Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas 43; by day, Garibaldi-Lagunilla and Bellas Artes metro stations are close by.