What this section covers. Mexican cooking in the city where most of it converges — because Mexico City is not a regional cuisine but the place every regional cuisine arrived at.
The regions you can eat here. Oaxaca for its moles, tlayudas and black clay cooking; Puebla for mole poblano, cemitas and chiles en nogada in season (August and September only); Yucatán for cochinita pibil and the citrus-and-achiote palette; the north for grilled meat and flour tortillas; Veracruz for seafood and the Caribbean influence. All within a few neighbourhoods of each other.
The city's own dishes. Tacos al pastor, which came from Lebanese migration and became the most Mexican thing there is. The torta, which is not a sandwich: the quantity and the order of the layers matter. Comida corrida — soup, main course and agua fresca for the price of a coffee in the Condesa — which is how the city eats on a working day. And pulque, fermented maguey sap, drunk here long before the Spanish arrived.
Where to eat it. Street stalls, market fondas, cantinas and the chef-driven restaurants of the Roma, Juárez and Polanco, which have been rereading Mexican cooking seriously for two decades.
Practical notes. Lunch is at 14:00 and dinner starts at 21:00. Markets and street food are cash. Taste the salsa before you pour it — the heat is never announced.
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