What this section covers. Small hotels and B&Bs — which in Mexico City often means something more interesting than the size suggests, because of what the buildings were before.
The buildings. Colonia Juárez and the Roma were laid out around 1900 for families imitating European life, and their Porfirian mansions — French facades, high ceilings, ironwork, tiled courtyards — are exactly the right size for a twenty-room hotel. The historic centre has colonial palaces doing the same job, some with rooftop terraces over the domes. In Coyoacán and San Ángel the equivalent is a colonial house with a courtyard.
What you get and what you give up. You get character, a courtyard, a neighbourhood and staff who know the city. You give up the gym, the business centre and sometimes the lift — which matters in a converted mansion with three floors and a staircase.
What to confirm. Whether there is a lift and on which floor your room is; soundproofing, since these are old buildings on live streets; parking, which is usually off-site; and whether breakfast is included, as it frequently is in this category.
Practical notes. The Roma, Condesa and Juárez are walked rather than driven. Check-in is usually 15:00.
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