What this section covers. The restaurants people go to partly to be there — rooftops, design-led dining rooms and the kitchens that are currently being talked about.
Where they are. The Roma and Juárez, which have been the centre of gravity for a decade: converted Porfirian houses, open kitchens, natural wine, mezcal by producer. Polanco for the polished and expensive version. The historic centre for rooftop terraces over the colonial roofs — a format this city does better than almost anywhere, because the view is of domes and stone rather than of other towers. And the Condesa, where the terraces face the tree-lined medians.
What to expect. Dinner starting at 21:00 or later; reservations needed for Thursday to Saturday, sometimes weeks ahead; cocktail programmes built on mezcal, raicilla and sotol rather than imported spirits; and prices that are still, by European or US standards, low for the quality.
The honest caveat. This category moves fast. A place that was impossible to book two years ago may be quiet now, and the opposite. Check recent sources rather than old lists, and ask locally.
Practical notes. Book ahead. Ask about dress code in Polanco. Tipping is 10 to 15 per cent and frequently not included in the bill.
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