What this section covers. Latin American cooking in Mexico City — which exists because of exile as much as migration.
The Southern Cone. Argentine, Uruguayan and Chilean restaurants grew above all in the 1970s, when the dictatorships sent waves of people north and Mexico took them in. They left a network of parrillas, pizzerias and empanada houses that are now simply part of the city: bife de chorizo and entraña, chimichurri on the table, the Uruguayan chivito, and empanadas that differ visibly between the two countries.
The Caribbean. Cuban food and music, strongest in the Roma and around the centre, with ropa vieja, moros y cristianos and live son and salsa on the same bill — Cuban musicians have been a presence in this city since the 1940s.
And the rest. Peruvian, which has grown fast in Polanco and the Roma, with ceviche and causa; Colombian and Venezuelan arepa places, a newer and visible wave; and Brazilian churrascarias.
Why this matters here. Mexico City has been a city of political asylum for a century — Spanish republicans, Southern Cone exiles, Central Americans — and its restaurant map is one of the clearest records of that.
Practical notes. The Cuban venues are nightlife as much as dinner: expect a cover charge and live music from mid-evening.