El Entrevero

What it is. A Uruguayan restaurant on the Jardín Centenario — that is, at the exact point in the centre of Coyoacán where the coyote fountain stands. Pizza, pasta and, above all, empanadas, which are what diners recommend. Everything is made to order.

Why Uruguayan cooking. Migration from the Southern Cone to Mexico — Argentine, Uruguayan and Chilean — grew above all in the nineteen-seventies, under the dictatorships, and left the city a network of grills, pizzerias and empanada houses that are now part of the landscape. The Uruguayan empanada is smaller, with a thinner pastry, than the Argentine one.

The location is the strong point. Sitting on the Jardín Centenario means a table looking onto the busiest square in Coyoacán; it also means it is full at weekends and the terrace goes first.

Practicalities. Open every day from 08:00 to 23:00. Coyoacán has no Metro of its own: Viveros-Derechos Humanos and Coyoacán, line 3, are about twenty minutes on foot.