El Huequito Centro Histórico

What it is. A historic taquería in the centre, on calle Gante, a few steps from Madero and the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The specialities are bistec and pastor tacos, though the menu also runs to broths, tortas and quesadillas.

This house's pastor. El Huequito is one of the taquerías that contest the origin of the taco al pastor in Mexico, and its version differs from the usual one: the meat is served chopped and sauced rather than sliced straight from the spit onto the plate. If you came looking for the pastor benchmark, it is worth ordering here to compare with anywhere else.

When to go. It opens at 07:00 every day — one of the few places in the centre where you can have tacos for breakfast — and closes at 23:00, except Friday and Saturday, when it runs until 05:00. That weekend small-hours stretch is its best moment.

Getting there. Gante #1, in the heart of the historic centre. Metro Bellas Artes, San Juan de Letrán and Allende are all a few minutes away. Cash is often expected: bring change.