Mercado Olivar del Conde

What it is. The public market of Olivar del Conde, a large working-class colonia in Álvaro Obregón, in the west of the city. It is a market for residents rather than visitors: fruit and vegetables, butchers, fishmongers, tortillerías, flowers, household goods and a row of craft stalls, with a cooked-food section that fills up at lunchtime.

Why it is worth knowing about. If you want to see how an ordinary Mexico City market works, without the tourist pricing of the central ones, this is a good example: prices are local, Spanish is useful, and the food counters are cheap and good. Ask for the fonda stalls and the comida corrida —a set lunch of soup, main course and agua fresca for a few dollars.

Practical notes. Open daily 07:00–19:00; mornings are the freshest and busiest. Bring small cash, keep your bag in front of you in the crowded aisles, and note there is no metro nearby —Observatorio or Tacubaya plus a local bus, or a taxi, is the way in.