Matisse Condesa

What it is. A restaurant-café on Avenida Ámsterdam, in Hipódromo Condesa, whose motto sums up the offer: boleros, blues and jazz. Art on the walls, furniture from several eras and international cooking in a homely setting.

Where it is, which matters. Ámsterdam is the circular street of the Condesa: it traces the oval of the old racecourse that occupied this ground until the nineteen-twenties, with a tree-lined median down the middle. Walking the whole loop takes half an hour and is one of the most pleasant strolls in the city; this café sits on that circuit.

When to go. Monday to Saturday from 07:30 to midnight, Sundays 07:00 to 22:00 — a wide span that covers early breakfast through late dinner, which is unusual in this neighbourhood.

Getting there. Ámsterdam #260. Metro Chilpancingo, line 9, and Sevilla, line 1, are a few minutes on foot; parking is scarce.