Daruma Insurgentes Sur

What it is. A Japanese restaurant on Porfirio Díaz, in Nochebuena, inside the World Trade Center district — which tells you who eats here: offices at midday, and a quieter, more deliberate crowd in the evening.

What to expect from Japanese food in Mexico. Two genres share the same menus. Mexican sushi means large rolls, frequently breaded or baked with cheese, with cream cheese and sauces — a popular local form that should be judged as what it is. The more orthodox repertoire — nigiri, sashimi, soups, grilled dishes — exists alongside it but usually has to be asked for. Say so explicitly and ask what is outside the roll list.

Where it puts you. The WTC complex holds the city's main convention centre, and the Poliforum Siqueiros — the dodecahedral building covered inside and out by David Alfaro Siqueiros's La marcha de la humanidad, the largest mural work of its kind in the world — stands beside it. Almost nobody eating lunch here goes in.

Practical notes. Av. Porfirio Díaz #534. The Insurgentes Metrobús stops a few streets away and Metro San Antonio, line 7, is within reach. During trade fairs at the WTC the whole area saturates at lunchtime.