Lienzo charro El Mirador

What it is. A charro ring in San Luis Tlaxialtemalco, one of the original villages of Xochimilco, built for the local charros and for the women who ride escaramuza. It is also rented out for private events.

Why the context matters here. Xochimilco still holds fourteen original barrios and villages with community life of their own, and charrería is part of it: this is not a staged attraction but the activity of the local associations. Charrería is Mexico's national sport and UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.

How to attend. There is no daily performance and no published timetable. Charreadas are arranged by date, often tied to the village's patron-saint festivities, which are the best moment to come: the ring, the band and the fiesta all happen on the same day. Call the number on the listing to ask.

Getting there. San Luis Tlaxialtemalco lies in the greenhouse and nursery belt of Xochimilco, in the south. There is no Metro: take the Tren Ligero to Xochimilco and a taxi from the village centre. Bring a hat — the ring is in full sun.