Tortas La Reforma

What it is. A tortería on calle Alejandro Dumas, in Polanquito, the pedestrian core of Polanco. It is the cheap option in one of the most expensive parts of the city to eat in.

What a Mexican torta is. A bolillo or telera roll split and filled — milanesa, pierna, ham, head cheese, turkey — with beans, avocado, tomato, onion and pickled chillies. It is not a sandwich: the quantity and the order of the layers matter, and every tortería has its own version. Ask for it ahogada and it arrives drowned in sauce; ask for it sin chile and nobody will blink.

When to go. Monday to Friday 08:00 to 19:00, with shorter weekend hours, 11:00 to 18:00. At lunchtime it fills with office workers from the area; mid-morning you will find a seat.

Getting there. Alejandro Dumas #92. Metro Polanco, line 7, is a few minutes away; parking in Polanquito is scarce and expensive, so arrive on foot or by taxi. Parque Lincoln is two streets away.