Mercado Portales

What it is. A classic neighbourhood market, opened on 10 August 1957 and still the commercial centre of Colonia San Simón Ticumac, in Benito Juárez. With close to 600 stalls it is big enough to be worth a detour and small enough to walk in half an hour.

What to look for. Fresh produce, flowers and local crafts on the retail aisles, and —the real reason to come— the cooked-food section: barbacoa, seafood, and a surprising range that stretches to sushi. The spice and chilli stalls are the best souvenir in the building: dried chillies, moles and seasonings for dishes from all over Mexico, sold by weight and far cheaper than in any shop.

Practical notes. Open daily 08:00–18:00; go between 10:00 and 14:00, when every stall is working and the food counters are at their best. Bring small cash —few stalls take cards— and expect to be offered a taste before you buy. Portales and Ermita stations on metro Line 2 are the closest.