Plaza de la Soledad

What it is. A square on the northern edge of the Historic Centre, on the boundary of the La Merced barrio, where baroque church architecture meets the everyday business of a working neighbourhood. Along the edges of the esplanade stand the chapel of Santa Cruz and the church that gives the square its name, Nuestra Señora de la Soledad.

What it is like to be there. This is not a monumental, swept plaza like the Zócalo. It is a local square: benches, shade, people crossing on their way to the market, vendors at the corners, and the churches as a backdrop. The appeal is exactly that —seeing the Centro as a place people live in rather than visit.

Practical notes. The square is open ground and can be crossed at any hour, but as with the whole La Merced area, come in daylight, keep your phone and bag close and leave valuables behind. Merced and Candelaria stations on metro Line 1 are both a few minutes' walk, and La Merced market is the natural continuation of the walk.