El Fogoncito Polanco

The house. El Fogoncito was founded more than forty-nine years ago by Don Francisco Rocha, known to his friends as El Güero, who set out to give every dish a flavour nobody could copy. What came out of that was the house's Receta Tradicional: a marinade combining ginger, almond, nutmeg and a set of ingredients the family has never disclosed. Every plate has been served with it since, and the chain is one of the names regularly cited as the best tacos al pastor in Mexico.

What to order. Tacos al pastor carved off the trompo, with pineapple, onion and coriander. Ask for the salsas on the side if you are travelling with children or do not take heat well — nothing here is labelled by strength.

This branch. On Leibnitz in Anzures, on the edge of Polanco, a few streets from Paseo de la Reforma and the Bosque de Chapultepec. It is a sit-down taquería with waiters and a bill rather than a street stand, which makes it an easy first taco for anyone nervous of the pavement version.

Practical notes. Leibnitz #54, Anzures. Metro Chapultepec and Sevilla, line 1, and Polanco, line 7, are all within reach, and the Reforma Metrobús stops nearby. Wi-fi, takeaway and delivery available; cards accepted.