What this section covers. Mexico City with children — which works far better than its reputation suggests, provided you manage distance and altitude rather than trying to manage the choice.
The three rules. One main activity a day. Group by area — Chapultepec one day, Coyoacán and the south another, Xochimilco another — and never cross the city twice in a day. And respect the 2,240 metres: the first two days are slower, with water, a cap and sunscreen, because the sun is strong even when the air is cool.
Where to start. Chapultepec fills a whole day: a free zoo, a lake with pedal boats, the castle on the hill and the Papalote Museo del Niño, built for children to touch everything. Xochimilco by trajinera is the other safe bet — hired by the boat and by the hour, so a family costs the same as a couple.
For rain and for energy. The Planetario Luis Enrique Erro, the Acuario Inbursa, the Museo del Juguete Antiguo, KidZania, and the public deportivos, which charge token fees and are where local families go.
Practical notes. Under-fives travel free. Avoid the Metro with a pushchair at peak hours; a baby carrier beats a large pushchair in the historic centre. Most museums close on Mondays and are free for residents on Sundays — which means crowds.
