What this section covers. The bohemian and artsy side of the city, which has a very precise geography: a walkable triangle made of the Roma, the Condesa and Juárez, with Coyoacán and the Zona Rosa as satellites.
By day. The Condesa for art deco streets, Parque México and Avenida Ámsterdam, which traces the oval of a 1920s racecourse. The Roma for galleries, gourmet markets, bookshops and converted Porfirian houses. La Lagunilla on a Sunday for antiques and the best people-watching in the city.
By night. Bars and small venues in the Condesa and Roma; the Zona Rosa, whose Amberes and Niza streets hold the most concentrated LGBT nightlife in the country; cantina hopping in Coyoacán. Noche de Museos, the last Wednesday of most months, is the single best evening of the cultural calendar.
What makes it work. Distance. Everything inside the triangle is walkable, the restaurants turn into bars and the bars into something later, and a night out needs no plan beyond choosing a street.
Practical notes. Dinner at 21:00, bars after 23:00, clubs after midnight. Parking is scarce everywhere here — arrive on foot or by taxi. The Metro closes around midnight.
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