Don Eraki Cumbres de Maltrata

What it is. Doneraki opened its first restaurant in the nineteen-fifties and has served Arab-style tacos ever since, alongside jocoque, tabbouleh and Arab bread. This branch is on Cumbres de Maltrata, in Narvarte.

Why this cooking matters in Mexico. The taco árabe — meat carved off a vertical spit and served in pita — arrived with Lebanese migration in the early twentieth century. From that recipe, adapted with marinated pork, a maize tortilla, pineapple and coriander, came the taco al pastor, today the most Mexican taco of all. Eating here means tasting the original link in the chain.

What to order. The taco árabe, of course, and the jocoque — thick, sour fermented milk spread on bread with olive oil and za'atar — which is the classic opener of this tradition in Mexico.

Practicalities. Monday to Saturday from 12:00 to midnight, Sundays 13:00 to 22:00. Metro Etiopía and Eugenia, line 3, are a few minutes away.