El Tizoncito Coyoacán

The house that claims the taco al pastor. El Tizoncito is a Mexican chain that presents itself as the creator of the taco al pastor as it is known today; the argument over the origin is old and was never settled, but the claim explains why pastor is the centre of the menu here rather than one more line on it. This branch is on calle Aguayo, a few steps from the centre of Coyoacán.

What to order. Tacos al pastor off the trompo, with pineapple, onion and coriander, and the agua fresca of the day. Ask for the salsas on the side if you are travelling with children or do not take heat well. There is also delivery and takeaway.

When to go. It opens at midday and closes at 02:30, until 03:30 on Friday and Saturday: one of the places in Coyoacán that keeps working after the cantinas shut. The best moment is weekend evening, when the neighbourhood is full. Coyoacán has no Metro of its own: the Coyoacán and Viveros-Derechos Humanos stations on line 3 are about twenty minutes' walk away.