Los Parados de Monterrey

What it is. A taquería on calle Monterrey, on the edge between Narvarte and Roma Sur, of the kind that lives off the night: it opens at one in the afternoon and closes at midnight, and on Friday and Saturday it runs until 04:00.

How a taquería like this works. You order at the counter or at the table, by the piece, and then order again: tacos are counted in twos and threes, not one at a time. The salsas sit on the table and the heat is never announced, so taste with the tip of the taco before you pour. Consomé and the agua fresca of the day are the usual accompaniment.

When to go. It is closed on Sundays, which is family taco day in Mexico: bear that in mind. Its moment is the weekend small hours.

Getting there. Monterrey #333. Metro Chilpancingo and Eugenia, lines 9 and 3, are a few minutes away; for the trip back at dawn, use an app taxi.