Feria del Tamal 2020

The 2020 edition is over, but the fair returns every year. The Feria del Tamal is held at the Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares, in Coyoacán, around Día de la Candelaria on 2 February, usually over several days at the start of the month. The museum announces each year's dates and programme in January.

Why Candelaria. Because of the chain that runs from Christmas: whoever finds the figure of the Christ Child in the rosca de reyes on 6 January is expected to provide the tamales on 2 February. It is the single biggest tamal day of the Mexican year, and the fair exists because of it.

What is there. Producers from across the country bring regional varieties: Oaxacan tamales in banana leaf, Yucatecan vaporcitos, zacahuil from the Huasteca, sweet and savoury, plus atole and champurrado. It is a tasting fair, not a restaurant — come hungry and in cash.

Getting there. Av. Miguel Hidalgo #289, colonia Del Carmen, in the centre of Coyoacán. There is no Metro: Coyoacán and Viveros-Derechos Humanos, line 3, are about twenty minutes on foot. Weekends are crowded; go on a weekday morning.