Día de Muertos en Xilotepec-San Gregorio

As with all Mexico, the Day of the Dead is essential in the country's traditions and Xochimilco is no exception. Two of the cemeteries welcome not only tourists but the inhabitants of the neighboring colonies to house the spirit of their dead. They come to clean and decorate the graves with flowers and candles. Most stay in the cemeteries and stay overnight, besides the traditional alumbrada (light up) is performed and they even bring mariachi or bands.

This event is held every year. San Gregorio Atlapulco and the barrio of Xilotepec, in Xochimilco, keep their Día de Muertos vigil on 1 and 2 November, with preparations through the last days of October.

What makes Xochimilco's version distinctive. This is chinampa country, and the flowers on the altars are often grown a few hundred metres away: Xochimilco is one of the main producers of cempasúchil for the whole city. Families build large home ofrendas, the pueblo cemetery is lit with candles through the night, and the parish rings the bells for the alumbrada.

What to combine it with. The canals and the Saturday plant market at Cuemanco are in the same borough, and the cempasúchil fields are at their peak in the two weeks before the festival — a sight in themselves.

Getting there. Xochimilco has no Metro: the Tren Ligero runs from Tasqueña to Xochimilco, and San Gregorio is reached by local transport or taxi from there. Go before dark if you do not know the area, carry cash, and ask before photographing people at the graves.