Posadas del Niñopa

The Niñopa or "pilgrim boy of the neighborhoods" takes on the streets before Christmas where thousands of parishioners observe and honor him. The family that wants to have at home the Niñopa should ask years in advance and also organize a posada (party) for the neighbors.

Every morning a breakfast is offered for all accompanying Niñopa and then the procession begins with music, colors and songs; at afternoon is even more interesting, as they begin to develop a true community celebration.

This event is held every year. The posadas of the Niñopa take place from 16 to 24 December, the nine nights of the traditional Mexican posada, in Xochimilco.

What the Niñopa is. A sixteenth-century image of the Christ Child that has been cared for by Xochimilco families since the colonial period. Each year a different mayordomo household takes custody of the figure — a commitment so sought after that the waiting list runs decades into the future. The Niñopa leaves its house daily and is received in the barrios.

What happens during the posadas. Each of the nine nights reenacts Mary and Joseph's search for lodging, with the procession singing at the door until it is admitted; then come ponche, tamales, piñatas and fireworks. The Niñopa's posadas are among the most elaborate in the city precisely because they belong to the community rather than to an institution.

Going. Xochimilco has no Metro; the Tren Ligero runs from Tasqueña. These are private households opening their doors: accept what is offered, ask before photographing, and go early in the evening.