Fiesta de San Miguel Arcángel Ajusco

The "fiesta grande" (big party) which is celebrated with rides, firework structures, rodeo, public dances and dances performed by chinelos and arrieros is arranged.

This event is held every year on 29 September, the feast of Saint Michael the Archangel, in San Miguel Ajusco, one of the original pueblos of Tlalpan.

Where it happens. Ajusco sits high on the southern edge of the city, on the slopes of the volcano that gives it its name, above 2,700 metres. The pueblo keeps a strong community organisation and its patronal feast is among the most substantial in the south: novena, principal mass, procession with the image through the streets, dance groups, a fair in the atrium and fireworks at night.

Why it is worth the trip. This is a mountain pueblo with pine forest at its back, not a city neighbourhood. The feast is organised by the mayordomía and attended by the pueblo; visitors are welcome but incidental, which is precisely what makes it worth seeing.

Practical notes. There is no Metro anywhere near; the route is Metro Universidad or Huipulco and then local transport, or a taxi for the climb. It is appreciably colder up here than in the centre, especially after sunset — take a jacket. Carry cash, and ask before photographing.