Fiesta de San Miguel Arcángel Xicalco

Traditional fair selling antojitos and Mexican food, fireworks, dances and music.

This event is held every year on 29 September, the feast of Saint Michael the Archangel, in San Miguel Xicalco, an original pueblo of Tlalpan on the southern edge of the city.

What happens. The nine days of the novena, the principal mass on the day itself, and a procession carrying the image through the streets of the pueblo. Around the religious core: an atrium dressed with flowers, dance groups, a band, food stalls, rides for children and fireworks at night. The mayordomía organises and finances it, and the programme is announced by the parish shortly beforehand.

The setting. Xicalco sits on the road up towards the Ajusco, in the belt where the city gives way to pine forest. It is small, it is not on any tourist route, and the feast is attended by the pueblo and by relatives who come back for it.

Practical notes. No Metro: local transport or taxi from Tlalpan centre. Take a jacket — the evenings up here are cold even in September. Carry cash, and ask before photographing people.