El Tizoncito Tamaulipas

The chain. El Tizoncito is a Mexican taquería chain that presents itself as the creator of the taco al pastor as it is known today — the argument over the origin was never settled, but it explains why pastor off the spit is the centre of the menu. The format is a restaurant with tables and waiters rather than a street stand, with hours that run into the small hours.

This branch. On calle Tamaulipas, in the thick of the Condesa circuit, surrounded by bars and restaurants. It closes at 03:30, half an hour later than most of the area, which makes it the habitual full stop to many nights in the neighbourhood.

Getting there and when. Metro Chilpancingo and Patriotismo, line 9, are a few minutes away, and Parque México a few streets off. There is no parking of its own and very little in the Condesa: come on foot or by taxi. From Friday to Sunday after midnight you will wait for a table.